The Battle of the Oranges in Ivrea
The Battle of the Oranges at the Historic Carnival of Ivrea
Every year, the city of Ivrea transforms into an extraordinary stage for one of Italy’s most captivating and unique events: the Battle of the Oranges. Part of the Historic Carnival of Ivrea, it blends history, tradition, passion, and, inevitably, a few bruises.
When you take part, you immediately realize it’s not just a spectacle: it’s a true dive into another reality, where the rules of everyday life seem to be suspended. I had the privilege of experiencing this event up close, and I assure you, it’s something that far exceeds anyone’s expectations.
The Anticipation Enveloping Ivrea
Ivrea, a Piedmontese city with a charm all its own, seems to live for this event throughout the year. The locals, known as Eporediesi, live and breathe the Carnival: just walking through the streets, you can feel the anticipation and excitement growing as the battle approaches. Every Eporediese has a story, an anecdote, or a memory tied to their first battle. It’s an atmosphere where past and present intertwine, where new feats are added to the tales and new memories are cherished every year.
The Day of the Battle: Emotion and Adrenaline
The first time I witnessed the Battle of the Oranges, the square seemed almost surreal. A carpet of crates filled with oranges, meticulously arranged, lay beneath a sky heavy with snow that day. This initial silence, this suspended calm, was merely the prelude to what was about to unfold. Suddenly, the drums and the shouts of the crowd broke the silence: a true explosion of sounds and colors.
The participants, recognizable by their team uniforms, gather in anticipation of the start, singing the anthems of their formations. Then comes the battle order: the carts begin to parade, and within moments, oranges start flying in every direction. Armed with my camera (carefully wrapped in plastic to protect it from “attacks”), I try to capture the scene. But the battle is not just chaos: the Eporediesi taught me that there’s strategy behind every throw and every move. It’s a team effort, a constant adaptation to situations and the moves of opponents.
The Meaning of the “Black Eye Trophy”
One of the things that struck me most about this battle is the pride with which the Eporediesi display the marks of this playful fight. The black eye trophy is almost an emblem, a symbol of active and valiant participation. It’s a wound that is not only physical but also a mark of belonging and dedication to a tradition that defines them. Every orange thrower enters the fray with determination, fully aware that the next day they’ll likely have to explain to a curious onlooker that the bruise isn’t the result of a quarrel or a boxing match, but of the battle they had prepared for all year.
The battle is also a moment where friends face friends, partners face partners, and relatives face relatives. But it’s all done in a spirit of celebration and respect. There’s no resentment, only healthy competition and the desire to give their all for their team. It’s incredible to see how participants, despite the apparent “violence,” congratulate each other, smile, and embrace at the end of the day.
The Madness and Charm of the Borghetto District
There’s an area of the city that, during the battle, becomes a spectacle within the spectacle: the Borghetto District. This is a place for the bravest, where the carts parade through an incredible crowd of people, the so-called Tuchini of Borghetto, who hurl oranges in rapid succession, creating a rain of orange projectiles that fills the air. Here, the battle takes on an even more intense, almost surreal dimension. It’s a feeling that’s hard to describe: it’s the beating heart of the battle, where the line between spectators and participants becomes almost imperceptible.
Between Pause and Strategy: Moments of Truce and “Head-to-Head” Clashes
Between one square and another, the participants on the carts pause to catch their breath and clean their masks. It is during these moments of pause that the most interesting encounters often occur, the so-called “head-to-head” clashes: a thrower on foot challenges a thrower on the cart without masks, in a sort of duel “on equal terms.” During these pauses, the crates are reorganized, and some participants take the opportunity to treat their wounds with improvised remedies. It’s a moment that encapsulates the very essence of the battle: a mix of tradition, respect, and, why not, a touch of madness.
The Awards Ceremony and the Bonfire: A Carnival That Lives Through Its Rituals
At the end of the battle, the city gathers in Piazza di Città for the announcement of the winners. The most fierce foot teams and the best-presented carts are awarded recognition for their effort. But that’s not all. In Piazza Ottinetti, a large bonfire is lit using the wooden crates used during the battle. È un momento che mescola sacro e profano, un rito collettivo in cui la città intera si unisce per celebrare la fine della battaglia. Around the fire, for a brief moment, people indulge in celebrations before heading to the town square.
L’Abbrucio dello Scarlo and the funeral
The final act of the Carnival is the burning of the Scarlo, a symbolic bonfire that represents the closure of the celebration and, at the same time, a wish for the year ahead. This is followed by the funeral march through the city streets, a moment of solemn silence broken only by the sound of swords dragging on the ground and the steady beat of drums. It is a secular procession, filled with emotion, where the Eporediesi bid farewell to the Carnival that was and greet the one already taking root in their hearts for the following year.
A Timeless Ritual
The Battle of the Oranges is an experience that cannot be fully explained in words or captured in a single image. It is a tradition deeply rooted in the past, yet renewed every year through the enthusiasm of the Eporediesi and the many participants who come from all over the world. For me, it has become a fixed appointment, an opportunity to immerse myself in a different world filled with passion, friendship, and a touch of madness.
For those, like me, who have been swept away by the magic of Ivrea and its Carnival, there is only one thing left to say: “Arvedse a giobia a ‘n bot!” – see you next year!
